May I also add something I learned over the years ? You can use a digging bar , or a shovel ( round digging shovel works best ) as a listening device ( a very cheap locator ) . With some practice , you can almost always pinpoint the bore head by listening to the underground sounds that the bore head makes . If you are using the digging shovel , always point the inside ot the curve/arc , towards the rods , or bit . As you check different locations on the surface , you will notice the different pitches , and loudness , of the sounds . If you know you are checking behind the head , the loudest point should be the center of your rods . Mark a couple of points with paint , or some small stones , or pieces of bark,mulch,anything available , etc.,etc. you have now formed a visible path of your bore . Now , by checking various points along , and ahead of this line , you should be able to determine a very close location of the bore head by noting the increase in the pitch of the sound , as well as the increase in volume . This will work with worm bits and rock bits . The rods and bit must be rotating in order to produce the underground vibrations . If you have a crew member available , let them move the machine back and forth a little while you stand in one spot , so you can get use to the sounds of a approaching and departing bit . place the handle end of the shovel or digging bar against your ear ( with care ) , and the business end on the ground where you think the bore is occuring . Check different locations using the same procedure . You will get the hang of it , I'm sure . If all else fails , and you don't want to dig the recieve pit from/to hell , perhaps you or a friend ,or supervisor has a locator with an induction clamp . Clamp the locator over the rods ( not turning ) , and try to pinpoint the spot where the reciever sounds drop off dramatically . This will be very close to the end of the rods and bit . They make a locating sonde which can be used in-line between the rod end and bore head , but , they are costly , and vulnerable to heat failure ( dry bore ). You would need a reciever capable of tuning the same frequency as the sonde , but could definitely pinpoint position and depth . The other guys who responded to your question had very good suggestions , as well . I was just trying to help you diminish the ammount of ground you needed to dig up , on the recieving pit end . I have some designs for home-made boring tools , which are far less expensive , and in some cases , offer far better control . I have quite a lot more help to offer ,if you are interested ? Just click on my company link , for contact information .
> My experience has been to get about a rod and a half long ditch. About 15' and make it about 6-8 inches deeper than the required cable depth. Start the bore head at the required depth and then get someone behind you and have them raise the back end of the rod about 1/2 a bubble on the level. This will give you a slight down angle and hold this angle for the entire first rod. Also make sure your first rod is your best rod. This down angle will compensate for the tendency of the rod to rise. Of coarse if it is a fairly long shot make the angle a little more and if it is shorter flatten it out a little.
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