???? Commscope P3 cable has a SOLID copper center cunductor... I have NEVER seen a copper clad aluminum center cunductor, seen it many a time on house wiring but never .500 and up coax. Not saying it doesn't exist, but I have yet to see it in California, Arizona, Colorado, Arkansas, Maryland, Virginia, or New Jersey.
stir stir...
>Consider the fact that the copper is clad on an aluminum wire. It works well technically, but these two elements are unstable when they are together and mixed with moisture. Just look at the next watered out tap you find. I wonder what type of corrosive by products occurr when it goes through the heating cycle. Bottom line for me is, I own it, I live with it, I don't want to be called out that 15 below, never mind the wind chill 3AM Sunday morning. I'll take a little inconvenience and perhaps improve my technique doing things the best way.
>Maybe just fickle.
>
>>Whooo weeee... never meant to cause such a ruckus over a simple question. I know several sweepers that use this method... and like with any procedure there is a right and many wrong ways. If too much heat is used then the rapid heating and subsiquent cooling will actually change the composition of the copper causing it to be more brittle than normal. The cycle life (heating and cooling through the seasons) will therefore be shortened because the conductor will end up breaking under the stress of the contraction in the cold. If the copper is still hot when it is inserted and tightened in to the connector, then when it cools to normal temperature it will shrink, causing a "suck-out".
>>However, if a minimal amount of heat is applied, just enough to soften the dielectric on the very end and it is cooled before insertion, than there will be no problems. When using the Y-190's, AND NOT HEATING THE CENTER CONDUCTOR, you might get 5 or 6 pieces of cable done with a new pair of blades before they're shot and you end up scratching most of it off with your fingernail. But you can keep using those blades for a month or so if you soften (not completely melt or burn off) the dielectric with heat. If your guys are going through a pair of blades a day...they are obviously heating it TOO MUCH. Likewise as the Commscope engineer said, if you heat the conductor enough that it can move inside the dielectric, even the slightest bit, you are heating it TOO MUCH and it will change the impedance causing sweep problems. And for those who brought up the arguement of heating the shrink, DAMN GOOD POINT. I considered this myself when reading the replies to my question. That stuff is hot as hell when it is finished shrinking.
>> Like I said in the beginning, there is a right way and several wrong ways. I truly believe that if common sense is used, than heating the center conductor is fine.
>> Here's another point to ponder... I've seen dielectric melt in the sun on a 120 degree day in the Southwest. Have you ever cut cable that has been in the air for ten years and looked at how the dielectric has seperated from the aluminum?(I imagine this only occurs in the desert climates) And there they are putting the same kind back up...
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>>I kinda feel like I'm stirring the pot here...
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>>>>I have spliced all my life, heating the center conductor gives you probably the cleanest center conductor. No it does not cause suck outs.......whoever said that was green or TWC tech
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>>>If you follow this thread back a couple weeks it was a commscope engineer who gave the information. It may give a clean center conductor, but it does cause suckouts. Ever try sweeping anything you spliced this way?
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Re:Then I suppose battery acid is out !.....
Member #: 5131
Registered: 1996-2001
Posted:
46
Name:
Victor Solesky
Name:
Victor Solesky
Company:
Precision Cable Services Inc.
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